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Messages - John m

#31
Hi
I weigh in at 100kg.
I would go for chapter, paradigm 2 or a hijack.  I have had all three.
You will need a 5/6 stone crew and in reality it will be difficult to be competitive against a 17 stone team.
But every dog has its day!
John
#32
I think a boat with a t-foil can have more rocker as the wings provide lifting surfaces which would otherwise need to come from the hull shape.  The waterline outline of the dead cat bounce for example is like a tear drop when viewed in plan.

It may well be a factor that the sweet spot that people tend to be placing their foils works well with this flow of water close to the hull.

Another argument might be that the water is pretty disturbed close to the hull and putting the wings further down gives them less disturbance.  However they may feel less upwards force and therefore not provide as much lift for the same wing area?

Foils have been shown to work well with the final chapter which has more rocker than most, particularly in the final foot before the transom.

All well above my pay grade!
#33
The foil position which people have had most success with is about 8 inches below the bottom of the transom.  I don't know why...   interesting article in the 2019 newsletter about using the t-foil by Graham Camm, but does not cover your question.

Gavin Willis and I think Tom Stewart have both tried wings at the bottom.

John
#34
3543 - John Meadowcroft + 3471 - Ollie Meadowcroft
But who will we be sailing with?
#35
The weather won...


Six boats put their masts up...  Well done to them.
Three launched...
Two completed a race...


The plan is to try again in October apparently


It was jolly cold. My boat never got of the garage, let alone on the road to Burghfield.  Frankly, I am hoping for warmer weather when we go skiing in April.
#36
Oh dear, she is in a bit of a mess...


working from the top of the picture down the starboard side...


The rope coming through the deck is a barber hauler.  the jib sheet passes through the ring and this allows the sheet to be trimmed more outboard.  Most people have dispensed with these in favour of a dangly pole.


The next cleat is for the barber hauler.  The cleat controls the line on the other side of the boat.


The next fittings are for the shrouds.  There is a 2:1 purchase above the deck.  It is unclear where the shroud control line then goes to cleat.  I suspect it goes via a multi purchase system to the base of the mast and finally around a turning block to a cleat.  The cleat is probably the one next to the centreboard.


The next item is a through deck bush.  This might be part of a lower shrounds system?


The next item is a through deck block to a cleat.  This is for the jib sheet.


Now moving to the back of the thwart.


There are four cleats.  One will definitely be the kicker and I suspect also the cunningham, outhall and mast ram.  These will all be led back from the base of the mast via the blocks underneath the thwart on the side of the centreboard case.


In the mast gate you can see the mast ram tackle


The kicker looks to be a lever system.  It is to the right of the centreboard.


Hope this is helpful.  It looks like you have got some serious woodwork to do before you do the fit out.


John

#37
Hi Tim


Congratulations on your purchase.  I remember sailing against this boat 20 years ago!


This link might be helpful to get you thinking about things.


http://www.national12.org/downloads/n12_starters_guide_v2.pdf


We are based in High Wycombe and have a Design 8 3320 which has a nice simple set up that you could come and have a look at if you want. 


To do things remotely, take a few photos of what the inside looks like and we can probably advise on quite a lot of things that way.


regards
John
#38
Agreed, lots of great pics, thanks Kevan.
#39
Yes it is AC, the original feeling foolish, built to the rules as they were in 1995.
#40
I now use a 2:1 main halyard.  Tied to the top of the mast passing through a shackle which I fix to the headboard.

I use a cleat. I also use splicing rope.  I splice in another piece of spare splicing rope to thicken the rope where it cleats.  This really helps it lock into the cleat.  I maintain a reasonably long tail so that I can adjust the cleating position as it wears.  You can also reverse the halyard to move the wear point.

John
#41
We'll be there with two boats...
#42
I think the Foolish with a foil is quick.  My evidence is 3431 at Brixham in 2013.  I think the Foolish is potentially tricky as it has no chine and big planing sections to add to the foil.


The Chapter is also jolly quick with a foil.  Evidence has appeared post Brixham..., notably at Brightlingsea 2016.


When I write "with a foil" i mean with the right foil. 


Tom Stewart and Graham Camm have experimented with different foils in 2017.


Our Hijack is still in its 2012 configuration.  We just sail it more consistently now.  It is jolly quick 10mph upwards.  We are sticky (and arguably too big) in sub 10mph.  It is clear the Hijack generates more lift than the DCB and that we have to ease the rudder off when it is windy much much earlier.


Centreboard trim tabs can really work but are difficult to use reliably.  We dont bother.  Maybe we should as Graham and Tom both do.


Interestingly the Hijack and DCB have their masts set 1300mm from the bow whilst the Chapter and Foolish are more like 1030mm.  So far, never the twain shall meet, but it would be interesting...


John






#43
I am sure that someone will know, but the crew trophies for the week and the Burton Cup were not awarded until 1979 so that is less easily accessible information!
#44
Hi


Use U bolts as Rob suggests


Trim them to length with a hack saw and cut a new head into what is left so that you can still adjust them.  You don't need to buy shorter ones!


John
#45
We sail off 1075 at Upper Thames SC.
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