Messages

Can I have some advice on how to make and rig a Dangly Pole please?  I guess the first three questions are  length of pole, diameter of tube and wall thickness of tube. Then I will need to know how to rig it and what goes in the end of the tube at either end in the way of caps or special fittings.  I have looked at the tuning guide but it's not particularly clear.
Help will be much appreciated.
Michael

Hi Louisa.  I to am new, but will be facing forward in the turns!   http://deadcatbouncenational12.blogspot.com/ Where do you sail?

John,

Thanks very much for all this info.  I hear that Jo plays the rudder a lot.  Could be that the increased rocker on DCB means that you can do that or need to do it.  Take your point re shifting weight!  Have seen a pic of your control mechanism and can see that it works well.  I'm surprised that the loads are so low.   Take your point re overengineering.  As things look at the moment I will have plenty of weight to spare. I need to have a system which works first time with no tinkering.  I'm new to the 12 and my crew(s) have hardly sailed at all!

Dare,  Thanks for posting.  I saw your rudder at CC on monday.  The mod will make a difference I'm sure.  Will have to take care setting up my boat and change "one thing at a time".  Build is going well as you have probably seen.
Appears that on your boat that rudder lift is on at all times except when tacking. Is that correct?

Jeremy,
Yes CC are moving the block which picks up the control line.  They are shifting it from the gantry to the rudder stock.  This will solve the problem I'm pretty sure.  I talked to Dare about it at Northampton and it seems to work pretty well even before the mod.  You will have seen Dare's post.

Thanks for posting.

Andy,

 You make very good points.  The moths took several years to get things right. Obviously it was fly or crash with them, but its lift and speed or crippling drag with the 12.  With the out of the box moth mods were still necessary.  I think we need to know from the designers what the optimum angle should be and to be able to turn it on and off with ease.  It was easy to flip the moth on its side and see what was going on.  Perhaps we need to build test benches for the 12 so that you can find a starting point for rudder angle on dry land and then go afloat and give it a try.
Perhaps my main conclusion from your post is that initial set-up is critical and as long as you can adjust on the water reasonably effectivly you're in business!

As many of you know, my boat is being built by CC at the moment and I'm helping them with the marketing of their all carbon DCB. 

I'm trying to decide which rudder system to have on my boat. Jo's boat has a lower pintle piston which pivots the rudder stock about the top pintle/gudeon.  This seems to work pretty well but is an expensive and heavy (not that it matters much on a carbon boat) piece of kit to manufacture.  The control system for it is lead to a jammer on the top of the centreboard case, accessible byeither helm or crew at all times.  I understand that Jo and his crew"play" the rudder downwind in waves all the time.

CC have an elastic and pulley based system in the tiller which moves the stock back and forth pivoting about the lower pintle/gudeon.  There may be an advantage to this, as it moves the rudder under the boat as lift is dialled on (thought tobe desirable on the foiling moth).  The system works well on the I14s they have built where the loads are double that of a 12.  Dare Barry uses this system on his boat and it works pretty well.  It’s undergoing slight modification at the moment which will lead to further improvement.  Dare leads the control lines out to either side deck where they can be adjusted by either helm or crew.

CC can build either system.  I'm undecided on which way to go.  I know that people have tried both systems down at Burghfield and I have has some feedback, but if
I can get the discussion going on this forum many, including myself can benefit.  Over to you...!

Now do the same exercise for a Merlin and you will get 5k more at least!

5mm.  Danny Clarke, the master of this (moth sailor), now uses 4mm.  I will send you his original pics which he took of the guy on the Marlow stand at The Excel show this year.

I have a galery showing you how it's done.  I haven't actually done it myself and am not 100% sure that thes pics are in the right order.  Inviting you to view it now.  Let me know how you get on.  I will need to do it on my new boat in a few weeks.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!  I never like the look of new BNWs (not that I'm a BMW fan), but after a while the design becomes more familiar, more acceptable and eventualy quite nice.

If the wood is discoloured you should try Oxalic Acid on it.  It effectivly bleaches it.  Then revarnish.  Try www.agwoodcare.co.uk

Thanks Greg.  Not quite sure what you mean by the strop.

Thanks Dare, I will have a look at your set-up on Sunday.  Michael

Thanks all for your replies.  Sounds like many have tried and some are still trying.  I will probably come up to Northampton on Sunday and have a look at a few boats.  My boat wont be finished for another month at least so I have a bit of time.