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Token Gesture was in a worse state than the photos above suggest:



The transom was completely rotten and the stringers down the side of the hull interior had parted company from the hull (poor design), allowing rot to set in underneath. To make matters worse, someone had coated her in epoxy, which was allowed to get damp before curing.





Anyway, decide to try and do some repairs. Replaced the rotten part of the transom, removed the rot from the interior veneer (not very pretty, but I did my best). My most successful repair was replacing the stringers, which now lead forward to the thwart.





That's all the good news unfortunately. I've been too busy since last winter to get her finished. Determined to do it in early spring, just keep procrastinating over what coating to use on the interior. I guess traditional varnish would be the easiest, to apply and maintain, but probably no the most hard wearing.

Hot air gun and scrapper works well, but be careful you dont burn the wood underneath (by pionting the gun at the same place for too long).
Use paint stripper on the 'fiddly' bits. Make sure the area is VERY well ventilated.
Tim

You dont mention your personal sailing/racing expereince - this is an important factor.

LOL - I managed to capture the blue worms and then released into the wild, a safe distance away.

Hope their homing instincts aren't strong.

Thanks for confirming my hunch, and the additional advice is much appreciated.

Although I've still got a lot to do, I'm hoping to get her to the 75th celebrations.

Tim

A question for the boat builders/renovators.

I've just replaced the transom on Token Gesture - or most of it anyway - with 2 pieces of 5mm ply stuck together. As per the original thickness.


On the original transom there was another piece of 5mm glued in the middle of the transom, from top to bottom, where the rudder fittings were/are. I suspect the builder was hoping this would provide enough fore and aft stiffness, but clearly this wasn't the case because someone fitted a knee at a later stage.

Question - is 10 mm thick enough to fit the rudder fittings too, assuming I reinstall the knee as well. Or do I need to make it 15 mm thick?


Picture below gives a general view of the transom before I cut out the rotten part - I have already removed the knee, and most of the wood round the rudder fittings has rotted away - I made the round hole with my finger!

Okay, so my spy didn't have it completely wrong (just the wrong occasion). Hope this thread hasn't spoilt the surprise, if there was supposed to be one.

My contact suggested it was bought as a birthday present for a well know 12 sailor, but may be he had it wrong (or they weren't quick enough).
Tim

http://www.uffafox.com/uffaking.htm

bend/chalky - Thanks for the tips and advice.
I was hoping not to replace the whole transom, although that might initially seem the most obvious thing to do, because the construction looks quite intricate at the transom / side deck join. I'm a bit worried that in attempting to split the join I'll cause more damage than I already have. 
I think everyone slightly misunderstood my comment about water coming in through the transom flaps - I didnt mean when sailing. I appreciate if water was coming in at that time it would be good indication that the crew weight is too far aft. I meant when getting ready to go sailing. I had noticed from pictures taken by the previous owner he had taped up the transom flaps, and I found by using duck tap across the lower edge of the transom flap holes, it gave just enough height to stop a lot of water coming when I have to go aft to lower the rudder ready for sailing, after launching the boat. But thanks for the comments anyway.

Tim

I'm phaffing over how best way to replace significant rot in Token Gesture's transom.

The transom appears to be made up of 3 layers of 5mm ply - 2 layers cover the whole transom, and the third layer is a strip along the top edge of the transom, about 10cms wide.

The rot has been caused by a screw fastened through the transom at the top pintle to a knee that appears to have been added at a later stage (I guess to increase the transom's strength). Unfortunately, all 3 layers have rotted at this point. 

Secondly there is rot around the 2 small drain holes, at the bottom of the transom. Which I guess is the normal place to suffer rot.

Finally, I was thinking of reshaping the transom flap holes anyway, as the lower lip is so low the boat takes on water as soon as I so much as look at the transom, let alone go aft to lower the rudder - a 3 to 4inch lip would be more practical.

If I cut out a large section of the the transom all in one go, is this likely to cause the hull sides to splay apart? Would supporting the hull using a tightened strap be enough to keep its shape while I replace the part removed?

Can anyone share any hard earned lessons on doing this sort of repair?

Thanks

Tim

Thanks for the advice Jim.

I will cut away until I get to solid wood, and see how much is left!


I suspect you are right about looking to replace like for like, rather than changing the design.


Tim

Thanks for the advice - what is the minimum size of cedar core I would need, to obtain the necessary strength.
Tim

I started to prepare the transom of Token Gesture for a revarnish, but have realised the wood just below the top pintle is completely rotten. So much so I dont need a chisel to remove it. I wasn't really surprised, although the degree of rot has come as a bit of a shock - no idea how the transom has stayed on this long. I should think the vanish was holding it together!


I could replace the rotten wood (no idea how far this goes yet), or I was wondering about cutting out the whole of the transom and replacing it with an aluminium cross beam to provide rigidity and to attach the top rudder pintle to.

Never having done this to a boat before, can someone recommend what size of extrusion I would need to use, and should I get a channel or angle extrusion? Bearing in mind the most weight it will probably have to carry is me trying to get back into the boat after a capsize!

Thanks in advance.

Tim

Thanks for organising the session Jeremy - real shame I couldn't bring Token Gesture - but getting the chance to sail Trick Cyclist was a real treat. We would definitely attend a similar session next year, if it can be arranged. 
Sorry for sailing so close, but you did say you wanted to be buzzed!