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Messages - johnk

#1
General National 12 chat / Re: Halyard
23 Mar 2021, 05:38
I use 4mm rope with a dyneema core. At last years Dinghy Show a Marlow rope representative said that 2mm dyneema was plenty strong enough and said that one could strip the outer polyester layer from a 3 or 4mm rope (dyneema core) and just leave the outer covering near where the cleat is.If you use a Clamcleat you may have worn the grooves over time. In this case replace the Clamcleat.
#2
The physical size of the block is not too important - as long as it is appropriate for the rope/wire that is used. However the boom block carries twice the load of any other block so it MUST be able to cope with that load. A high load block may well be needed.
#3
The block that is attached to the boom has the highest load. Ensure that it is a high load one or otherwise strong enough. 3mm Dyneema will be strong enough when spliced. I would make a trial fit out with ordinary string to find the lengths that are required.
#4
I would recommend a rope with a Dyneema core which will not stretch. 3, 3.5 or 4mm will be plenty strong enough. You should ensure that the cleat does not damage the outer cover. A little (20cm) extra length would enable to to cut 20 cm off the sail end, move the wearing point and extend it's life
#5
I remember crewing a National on the Sunday before Christmas 1962. We had to retire because the mainsheet could not be eased off wind. In the afternoon I helmed my Graduate and survived because I led the mainsheet from my hand, through the transom block and directly to the boom. In a force 4 it pulled my arm out of its socket but I finished the race! On Boxing Day I promised to take a young sister to watch Manchester United if sailing was not possible. There was half an inch of ice on the lake so I had to take her to the match!
#6
This looks good and you will have two lightweight crews!
#7
Maybe the RYA has the old YRA records that contain the details. Robin Steavenson in his book "The National Twelves" states that the class rules were created for the YRA and implies that the early events were run by the YRA whose chairman was Sir William Burton. It might be worth asking the RYA if they do have any details.

This should not stop NTOA trying to change the format of the Burton Cup race but we should try to avoid any legal issues.

#8
What does the Deed of Gift say? This may need to be amended.
#9
There is a good article today in Y & Y about him.
#10
This is sad news. Mike biult several boats that I crewed in and two that I owned - one of which I still own.
#11
I assume that you mean 11am!
#12
Toppers et al use a tube of fabric to surround the (loose footed) boom and mainsheet between the rear of the boom and the take off point. This reduces the risk of garrotting!
#13
I used to crew in a Squid. It had a Proctor D mast with no spreaders or diamond stays. I believe that some boats used a Proctor C mast with diamond stays. It did have a forestay (required by the rules in thse days). We measured the mast rake by using a spirit level to level the top of the centreboard case and put a weight on the end of the main halyard. This was about 20cm aft of the mast at deck level. Naturally you needed a calm day!
In your case, I would hoist the jib reasonably tight and measure the mast rake with any deck level chocks in to have little bend in the mast. If the rake is very different from 20cm, adjust the shroud lengths to get 20cm of rake. You can get shroud length adjusters from a chandler or use a rope lashing. If the latter use a STRONG dyneema rope.
When the mast rake is where you want it, you should adjust the jib fairlead position or move the jib tack up or down to get the jib to set properly.
I hope that this will be of some help. Do raise any further questions here.
#14
It was my first Burton. I appear as crew about 3 minutes in.
#15
There is also a Pathe Pictorial covering the 1954 Burton at Southend. This was very popular at Frensham as it featured our Club Secretary!
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