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I don't know how this is done these days, but there being less club events, is it possible it comes from results like the Bloody Mary etc?
If we get a truly windy year in all the big handicap events and we get panned by the trapeze boats, does it move back? I suspect not...

I missed this one too but I would aplaud it.
It is a return to the original idea of Admiral's cup, which was for old boats.
I have a bit of a personal one here because I had an old boat which was cheap, fun and competitive as an Admiral's cupper.
The "no double bottom" rule was enacted with almost no debate and meant that I ended up with a boat of very margin competitivity and now not an AC boat either - this was a strong disincentive to updating your boat.
Adding a double floor takes a bit of work and requires you to be careful with weight, but it gives you a dry boat and is a good sight cheaper than 1000 pounds for a carbon mast - more than the value of most AC boats.
A double bottom isn't obligatory - 3162 is still very fast possibly even faster in light airs than ever.
Single bottom boats are better inland and in light airs.
Double floors make the boat dry if you assume you are going to ship loads of water.
However they are a pig to right and do make it more likely that you will fall over in the first place - because it puts the crew higher in the boat and gives less space between the floor and the boom.
I have capsized my double floored boat more than I've ever capsized a single floored boat.
As for Bouncer, I don't think Joe would claim it was a "Bouncer" as a hull shape. There is very little of the original boat left - not even the daggerboard...and there we have another thread in the making..
 

Looking at the fixtures list there is a bit of a shortage of true sea sailing. Here is and idea - 
Exe Sailing Club - where we have previously had championships - is prepared to give us a start within the club racing during one of the weekends when they already have club sea racing scheduled.
The best weekend seems to be 18/19 July.
On this weekend there would be estuary sailing on the Saturday and sea sailing on the sunday. Three races each day.
If we turn up with a load of boats, we are going to overload the rescue facilities, so please let me know if you are likely to attend.
If there are likely to be more than about 10 boats, we had better try to work out where we can borrow a RIB.
Does this sound interesting to you? If so, please let me know!
Derek  3510

It is where I sailed against them (and occasionally for them - don't ask) in the late '70s and early '80s. What vintage are you talking about?
Derek

It might be nice to register on this forum when entries are full to avoid disappointment and allow people to join us at the (conflicting) Salcombe regatta which certainly IS a full week.
 
Derek

 
 
I've just seen this rather old thread.
There may be a reason for this.
If someone copied the original tiller length....
Agent Orange was mine originally and I have always sailed with a fairly short tiller and a long extension. The reasoning being that when the loads are really high, (down wind in waves when it is really windy), you are likely to be sitting behind the tiller extension joint. In these circumstances, the longer the tiller, the narrower the angle between the extension and the tiller and the less levereage you have since you are holding the tiller extension in the hand nearest the transom and also nearest the centre-line. A shorter tiller actually gives you more leverage.
That was the idea anyway..
cheers
 
Derek
3510

Whilst the water may be warm, I don't think the air is going to be warm. Mind you there won't be any wind so no great wind chill.
The major up-side to this is that N12s will sail well to the hanidcap - so let's have a good class turnout!
See you there
 
Derek
3510

...isn't there something about depth as well as distance in the Burton deed of gift.....
But then I do remember touching the bottom on the start line at Whitstable and nobody seemed all that bothered.

Hi Jeremy,
It seems to me you first need to work out the varnish in question. If you have got something coated in epoxy the solution is different from that of a traditional older varnish. The older, softer stuff is more suceptable to chemical removal. The more modern material is better suited to a powered mechanical removal.
There isn't really an alternative to a bit of elbow grease if you want a nice finish. You can use an orbital or better a DA (dual action orbital / rotary) and finish off with fine paper by hand in the direction of the grain of the wood to polish out he remaining marks which should be very shallow if using fine paper as the last touch on the DA.
For coatings; beware epoxys - they bloom in UV unless suitably treated. The solution used to be to varnish with two-pot polyerathane over epoxy but I have seem professionally finished boats where that went cloudy too.
There may be more recent views but two or three coats of good two-pot is good for two or three years. You can whack on four or five coats on decks in a week with the occasional intermediate sanding to take out the bigger flies. The important thing is to leave a good enough base to do a good last fine sanding for your final coat. Leave a couple of days for the two-pot to harden rather than just go touch dry before sanding.
I suggest a 100mm foam roller and just a touch of tinners to make is flow well on this last coat.
This might sound like a lot of work but when it works and after 45 minutes of putting on the last coat you stand back to look at it and it is good - it is well worth it. What is more it will remain that good for a couple of years. If you cannot be bothered to revarnish every two or three years, you are probably not temperamentaly suited to a varnished finish - get a belt sander and paint it!
 
good luck
 
Derek - (of the painted decks) 3510
 

I hope so too!

Perhaps he was looking for a reason for not being immediately in the top 5 that didn't involve recognising that there are an awful lot of VERY good people in the class!
For a class with a comparatively small fleet, I have (personally) noticed that if the numbers are decreasing, the fall-out rate seems to be from people behind me not in front making it even more difficult for newcomers who strong aspirations to stay motivated....or is it just that I am moving towards the back of the fleet as anno domini accumulate.
 
Derek

Hi Mike,
Since the Mary is the previous day this makes a good weekend.
Please book me in as a participant and for 3 lunches.
cheers
 
Derek 3510

The most interesting angle to look at the hull from would be 3/4 rear and level with the back corner - which unfortunately puts you the other side of the wall and the laurel bush! Very square at mid-length isn't it. That doesn't give you the best surface area to volume ratio which would be more curved. A strange thing to do when you have seven planks to play with but more common with only 4....

If you have no tank at the back, the rear bags must be at least 150lb rating. The back bags serve to keep the rear level with the water until you get enough dynamic lift from the hull to start moving back. If you are having to sit further forward than you would normally when sailing up-wind in a breeze, the rear bags may be too small.
The benefit of a small flat rear tank is that it gets the buoyancy low down where it does most good - buoyancy bags only work when they are under the water Achimedes! As an add-on benefit, it also puts a structural box a long way from the neutral axis in torsion. This makes the back of the boat much stiffer which is very useful if you don't have a double floor to do this for you.
Hope this is of some help.
cheers
Derek 3510

For me Sunday was the more interesting course for pictures - the spectacle of a stream of boats planing up to the club, cranking in the gybe and then blasting off towards the leeward mark is something I will remember for a long time. As you say, what a shame there were no videos there.