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Epoxy Hi Build / Paint for Centerboard

Started by James Taylor, 11 Feb 2008, 02:33

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James Taylor

Afternoon All

I am in the process off sanding of the paint from a Stanley Thomas foil that I got with N3402 does anyone know where I can get a small amount of Epoxy Hi-Build as there is that much paint there are some low spots.

Also any Ideas which is the best paint to paint it with was may be thinking about getting it sprayed and then rubbing down to a very fine wet and dry and then a polish.

Ideas greatly received. ;D

James
N3402
N3304 (Up For Sale)

Mikey C

I think you will struggle to buy epoxy highbuild in less than 5 kilo packs I'm afraid...
Carbon Toys for fast girls and boys!

//www.aardvarkracing.co.uk

James Taylor

Thanks Mike thought that might be the case.

Jimbo41

HI James!
Any two pack paint would do. Obviously, most people recommend International.....
I'm also doing the same thing on two of my foils, one for the Tigress and the other for the Man O War. Got to find a way of gotting a nasty chip filled on the rear of the Man O War centreboard too. I thought about using epoxy mixed with a colloidal filler to get the consistency of butter, so it doesn't run. Maybe it would be an alternative to Hi-Build. Ideas anyone?
Cheers! :)
Jim N3130 and N3470.
 
 

MikeDay

Jim
Yes, that should do it - for repairs to bits missing off folis, I just mix epoxy with colloidal silica, lay it on thick and rough, and then file/sand to shape when dry. 
Mike D
N3496

tim

I have recently moved away from international, and are very impressed with Jotun paint which was recomended by my local boat shop/boat repairer and not heard nowt bad about them yet.
They have a 2 part Primer called Penguard HB which is a Pure epoxy primer which covers and stiffens very well, I can also recomend there 2 part Hardtop XP whcih i recently got a very good finish with, However only time will tell if i made the right choice going away from old faithfull international, but I just got bored of the same colours i suppose.
Regards Tim
 
Note on colours Does anyone have a copy of Internationals "paint mix chart" they released a few years ago? I had a look on the internet but no luck.
 

Phil Brown

Hi James

I would be surprised if a S&T foil had any low spots in it when new. More likely it's the accumulation of paint in which case the original shape in under there somewhere, keep sanding until you find it. To avoid creating more hollows or flats, scribble over the surface with a soft pencil so you can see where you are sanding

If you must fill, try adding 15% microballoons to SP106 to give a easily sanded filler. Adding collodial silica to epoxy with some form of filler is great for repairing edge chips but if added as a surface filler it increases the hardness too much. If the filler is harder than what you are filling, you end up sanding the surrounding surface more than the filler - back to where you started! Alternatively one or two coats of primer should fill those low spots but you would still be left with sanding back the rest of the foil.

An alternative to spraying is to apply 2 pack with a short mohair roller and then lay off lightly  with a foam brush (single pass is usually sufficient). With Epifanes 2 pack polyurethane that gives a mirror like "wet look" finish straight off the brush (that shows every imperfection - trust me!) When completely cured, lightly rub down with 1200 W&D

Good luck
<br />Phil Brown<br /><br />N 3518

tonyelgar

I ve found epifanes paints, although not two pack, to be very tough and give a good level finish with a roller or a brush if thats any help?
ex 2760/3255

Jerry G

Jim, re repairs to trailing edge.  When i bought my Design 8 in 2000 the trailing edge of the laminated wooden c/b had a chunk out of it (probably caused by dropping the boom on it).  I used International epoxy repair kit with microfibres mixed in to make a stiff paste.  I think I clamped some thick plastic or plastic covered wood either side while it set (to avoid excessive sanding).  Its lasted 7 seasons OK.
Jerry N3365
 

Jimbo41

Thanks for that final comment Jerry. I've still got plenty of time to consider materials here, since at the mo' the garage temperature hardly goes above -3 °C -  even during the day!
Cheers!
Jim.
 
 

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