Messages

Alex,
I now understand where your decks have failed, I have seen the same problem on a Rowsell Merlin which was left uncovered for too long.... but we never had a problem with 3232 which would be of very simialr construction and there were no extra stiffeners. Is the inwhale securely fixed to the knees?
Epoxy must be the way forward, use microfibres to get the right thickness of glue. I have always used pumps to measure the 2 parts, but others will advise that weighing the components is the only way to do it.
Good luck John
 

the boat has never had any banding screwed to the keel therefore someone stuck some mylar to the bottom in a way that worked or it has always been a problem. off to buy some sail cloth and use some more expensive glue. Removing 3 m of glue 10mm wide at a later is not a problem compared with rebuilding the ribbed boat....

Thats the clearest set of instructions I have seen yet and thats pretty much what I did,except the glue was a bit closer to the edge ( 10mm gap would leave next to nothing bonded to the hull, the total width of the keel face is 50mm). The mylar was stuck to the boat like the proverbial to a blanket but it is the tight bend that did the damage. Perhaps a 1982 solution would suit a a boat of that era?
 
Now a dagger board would lovely, I would convert the boat overnight if they were allowed. Double standards allowing fixed or cassette rudders but bannging dagger boards and there varients.

A recurring thread, but can anyone help? I have just replaced the gasket on 3434 with 50mm mylar and sikaflex 292. It was perfect upto the point of retracting the board. I now have some shedded strips of mylar, a part used tube of glue and a cut finger. What else can I try? Will a sail cloth gasket stick to a plastic hull? Fed up and wanting to go sailing. Sensible offers for a nearly finished Baggy T considered, all it needs is a slot gasket, how hard can that be?

a popoular subject with lots of earlier discussion. I took the "bilge keels" of my old Rowsell crusader very quickly and easily. The main keel was another matter. If the boat has a substantial hog then removing the keel should not be too much of a structural issue, but I am not providing a warranty! I started on 3232 but stopped when I hit the screws used to hold everything together during construction. Secondly removal of the keel may result in the need to modify the centreboard/pivot to ensure the board fits inside the boat when it is raised but I didn't get that far.....Good luck and be prepared to buy new blades for the planer.

I sailed the boat a couple of times at the end of last year and the thwart was stopping me moving forward easily to stop the transom dragging. Is this a Baggy trait? I haven't sailed N760 yet, the rebuild not quite finished and waiting for new sails.
Not a very good picture of the transoms but the differing shapes are clear enough.

Can anyone advise on how far the back edge of the thwart in a Baggy T should be from the transom? N3434 would appear to have had a thwart added at some point in her life and it appears to me to be too far aft.
I have three options:

• leave it where it is. quick and easy
• move it forward . time consuming and I want to go racing
• take it out . Any potential problems?

Picture N3434 and N760 being swapped around in the drive.....
 

The finished rudder, stock and tiller. The old decks burnt well!

At last I have finished the hull and decks. It's only taken 17 months! Just the mast and a few fittings to go. I have cleared up the garage and the remains of the old decks etc have been burnt.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/86184903@N00/3442126519/in/set-72157617057847916/
 
This is a real project. Waterwitch was designed by Uffa Fox and is looking for a new owner prepared to rebuild a piece of history....

Thanks for the advice. The floorboards are now complete & ready to varnish. Interesting observation on pump accuracy. Is weighing the components a better solution? Kitchen scales + epoxy = certain trouble.

Now the weather is a bit warmer I have ventured out to the garage (unheated)to start making floor boards for the old boat. My epoxy resin and pump had solidified into a white lump. The hardener was still liquid and after heating the offending lump it to returned to a clear flowing liquid. Can anyone advise on how the cured epoxy will perform, if it does cure at all? Should I replace the pump and resin before I glue the mast back together?

Outside stripped and Varnished. The decks are ready for the last few coats and a new launching trolley not quite finished.

An Uffa King, owned by a young Peter Wilson and raced at Aldeburgh Yacht Club. Despite his interest in building and racing much larger yachts, he will find time to help the owner of a twelve foot National.