Low-viscosity primer, clear

Crusader 3244 · 18 Mar 2009, 09:41

I will soon be having a block-laminate beech worktop fitted in the kitchen for the sink-run.
I am hopelessly 'green' on epoxy and two-pack finishes. Nonetheless, having read Adrain Baker on the OK class assoc I wondered if a couple of coats of low-viscosity clear epoxy would make a good base upon which to finish with a satin yacht varnish. aside from whether this application actually merits going to those lengths it would be an opportunity to get famailair with product and methods. Intention would be to pre-finish before fitting.
Alternative thoughts would simply be varnish, oil or two-pack..................
Thoughts anyone?

Tim Gatti · 19 Mar 2009, 10:12

Hi - I had some beech block worktop fitted about eight years ago and finished it with the oil recommended by the manufacturer and it looked beautiful. Since then the areas away from the sink have done well but the run next to the cooker and sink have really suffered - especially if wife (and kids) forget to use trivets to put under hot pans straight out of the oven! It's also gone soft around the cutout for the sink as the bedding sealant has loosened and water has got into the endgrain. So I'm going to replace it as it's probably past repair.
I was going to epoxy and varnish the new piece but then heard about a product used by the trade which is both heat and waterproof - and designed for worktops and tabletops subject to the sorts of abuse encountered in the typical kitchen (and I don't mean arguments over who does the dishes obviously.) So I'm going to use it instead....
Rustin's Plastic Coating
â€¢ 2 part cold cure finish
â€¢ Suitable for use on a variety of surfaces subjected to heat, solvents and water
â€¢ Applied with brush, roller or sprayed
â€¢ Clear and gloss when dry - but you can fine sand for a satin finish
It's available from Axminster Tool Centre (I spotted it in their huge catalogue) - but check out this link if you want to follow it up. http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=23018&name=heat+resistant+coating&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0
Their Help Desk Team (0800 371822) are usually very helpful. Hope that helps. Tim

Tim Gatti · 19 Mar 2009, 11:32

Hi - in case you need it - here's some further info on this product from the Axminster site:
Rustin's Plastic Coating

Universally accepted as one of the toughest finishes available. Something akin to liquid formica, it is a 2 part cold cure finish which dries chemically after the addition of a hardener. It has a high solids content thus giving a high build per coat. It can be used on a variety of surfaces but not on metal or over paint. It can be brushed, applied with a roller or sprayed. There is no tougher finish for kitchen worktops, bar tops, tables or anywhere subjected to heat, solvents, water spillage etc. Plastic coating dries clear and glossy and can be left as such or given a satin finish by rubbing down with 0000 steel wool and wax, matt by using zero steel wool or brought to a high gloss mirror finish using burnishing cream, when it resembles a French polished surface but with none of the disadvantages in upkeep. (Coverage 1litre to 15m². Reaches maximum heat and solvent resistance after 5-7 days).

Crusader 3244 · 19 Mar 2009, 11:33

Hi Tim,
Mnay thanks. It hasn't escaped my notice that you are a fountain of knowledge ands common sense! That really does look a good tip. I'll follow up , for sure. This is is two short runs either side of a double ceramic 'belfast' so my biggest concern was water ingress. Cooker and prep run is on another wall. You are right to raise concern over heat though - I had overlooked that. Even in this situation i need to think of heat - after plating-up what do you do with the hot pan?. Place it next to the sink for washing! Doh!
Cheers- Chris

Crusader 3244 · 19 Mar 2009, 11:38

Tim,
I will be ordering today or tomorrow, Fit is in just over two weeks time so I'd better get my top sealed. I'll let you know how I get on and share my impressions.

Martin · 19 Mar 2009, 01:49

Quote from: 520I will soon be having a block-laminate beech worktop fitted in the kitchen for the sink-run.

"Sink Run"? Another new N12 in the pipeline!!!!

Crusader 3244 · 19 Mar 2009, 02:34

Martin, I like your humour! Yeah, 'Sink-Run' has a nice ring to it either as Design name or boat name. I'll get sketching now and try to progress the concept around the principles of the 18 degree forward mast rake of 'Trick Cyclist 2' recently prototyped and trialed at Burghfield!
The other boat name I like is 'Displacement Activity' but I'm reluctant to change the name of 'Why Can't You?' out of respect. ...........Dream ........until I'm wealthy enough to consider building ...........................................
Ben's suggestion would be "Whoopsmawidgee" after the extinct relative to the Coyote. :K)

Crusader 3244 · 19 Mar 2009, 02:45

Afterthought; given the natural tendency of the modern 12 to nosedive off the wind perhaps 'Sink-Run' would be a very apt title for the project. ..............Forward mast-rake would only serve to drive the nose down.
:-/

Crusader 3244 · 20 Mar 2009, 02:27

Hi Tim,
thanks again for your tips.

'see 'Platonic' is coming on well.
I haven't sourced my work-top yet but a point to note is that IKEA and possibly some other block laminate tops may come pre-treared with oil. The pre-treatment would make application of the 'Rustins' a bit tricky as it is reactive with oils and oil-based products.
I ordered a 1 litre pack yesterday from Axminster and it arrived today. Comes with clear and comprehensive instructions. Exterior use would be 'off-label' but me thinks I'll test a piece of ply and see how it weathers outdoors. In white it might make a tough finish for window-sills and interior doors etc. Crown decorator centres carry Rustins lines. Note; Need specific thinners.
The clerk wants me to go for the Ikea sq edge top 'cos my sink is ikea and he thinks the sq edge is important ( i don't ) . But that top comes oiled

. And you report that 'oiled' has not faired well.
So me thinks I'll source untreated top and finish with the 'Rustins' ........................and if roll front is all I can find then roll front it will be.

rgds - chris

Tim Gatti · 20 Mar 2009, 03:14

Chris - Magnet do a beech block worktop (that's where we got our original one from and where I'll be getting the replacement, although you normally have to order them in as they are expensive items as you've probably found out. The last one I got from them was untreated so I'm hoping the next one will be. They're about 28mm thick with a slightly rounded top edge so not as chunky as the bog standard particle board and laminate ones. Cheers. Tim

Crusader 3244 · 21 Mar 2009, 07:15

Hi Tim,
Thanks for that I'll check Magent for their spec and price.
Timber merchants may be a better bet especially if you can track down one who imports from origin.
A long way from you , I know, Atlantic Timber of Altrincham are importers and have 2, 3, 4m lengths of 40mm by 650mm sq edge in stock priced at £65 per m +VAT. They also have the 28mm. They can bench saw it down to 600 or 620 to suit the application. Also they would profile it to spec and or machine for 'key-clamp joints', - if that's the correct term.
I'm off tomorrow to take a look.

I'll just be putting a small round over on mine to provide a better key on that corner edge for the 'Rustins'
Fit is on 2nd Feb, so I'll share my thoughts with you then.

Crusader 3244 · 23 Mar 2009, 11:21

Just a quick update, Tim.
Atlantic timber advised me to treat both top and bottom as rising humidy from appliances can cause issues. This put me right because my inclination would have been to lip under and leave a large part of the underside untreated.
The other thing is that they swear by oil and advise there is a great variation in the performance of oil brands. Their recommendation is OSMO and they say dress all surfaces with two brush (or roller) coats of their wax/oil preservative before fitting. Then top can be dressed in situ with their 'top oil'.
The Rustin's looks to be a good product and I'll definately try it somewhere (there is a dining table renovation in the pipeline) . With the W/T though, given my lack of time to test the Rustin's I think I'll put the OSMO. 'Oiled' is a nice look when new. Given constaints of ongoing works and disturbance the OSMO should be much easier for me to apply in a tight timeline.
Cherrio, Tim

Tim Gatti · 23 Mar 2009, 05:14

No probs - Magnet provided an adhesive foam and foil barrier to stick on the underside of the worktop where it bridged appliances like dishwashers, so I can see where they are coming from. As well as this,I gave the undersurface one coat of oil - just to seal it and gave the top surface 4 or 5 coats. My concern would be the endgrain around the Belfast sink - this is the real weak spot and I'm not sure the oil will give it enough protection. I would be tempted to seal it with clear epoxy - or else regularly recoat with oil. (Which you may have to do with the rest of the surface to keep it looking good.)
Do you have a proper angled draining board that allows water to run off into the sink well clear of the edges of the worktop? Any standing water on the worksurface will quickly cause the surface to deteriorate. Don't foget those trivets or mats for the hot pans. Good luck. Tim